there's been a major whole in the wardrobes of stylish men since the departure of helmut lang from the menswear scene: but it seems that our prayers have been answered, helmut lang fall/winter '09 is back: monochromatic tones, draping and modern tailoring to look effortlessly cool.
its very difficult to talk about philip lim w/o gushing: 3.1 phillip lim this season was a testament to that cool. literally almost every look that he sent down the runway was styled to perfection, cuts and tailoring beyond and in fabrics and patterns completely luxe and gasp inducing. and the best part? hearing a buyer whisper "forget the times, this is so going to sell".
the darlings of cool jack mccollough and lazaro hernandez brought together a collection of luxe fabrics, cuts and tailoring to make anyone forget the dastardly conditions outside: heavy on the dark colors for fall the team brought new life to tweeds and silks in looks that make those chic girls downtown swoon. xoxo proenza schouler.
fall '09: my new depression-obsessions. tim hamilton's latest mens presentation during nyc fashion was a breath of fresh structured air. gone are the loose shoulders, volume and lightness of the previous season; replaced with tightly structured suiting, sharp lines and fabric mixes and matches that men want and are dying to wear. "classic and yet still so fucking edgy" was the quote i over heard while taking in the minimal and chic surroundings of the lehmann maupin gallery. bravo.
preen f/w '09: its always amazing to me how much 'blade runner' is referenced in fashion. from the curious cuts of balmain, to the strength of gareth pugh. this latest collection from preen (who's the new cool party girl dressmaker of the moment) is a play on soft and subtle fabrics in hard and geometric shapes. my favorite thing... the line is completely beautiful and exquisitely crafted.